Never a carbon ski though. Most times result in a huge improvement in carve-ability , especially on real big tails I. Never seen any delaminations or other ruinous results as outlined in this thread.
If people here think you are going to delam a ski doing this, they don't understand ski construction. Delam wouldn't really be a concern if you cut too far, as delamination comes from poor adhesion of the various layers in the ski.
Cutting too far would result in compromising the core by exposing it to water. But it's really damn hard to cut too far. Cut just beyond where it begins to rise like Mntlion said, and you are ready to rock. I cut with a band saw, and clean the rough cuts with a belt sander.
No epoxy necessary if you aren't cutting the core, so don't bother with the jb weld. Bandsaw is the ultimate tool IMO, especially if you are cutting through edges. If I was worried for some reason, I would confirm with marshal that the tip spacer construction on the pures is the same as on any other ski before cutting, just in case. I don't see any reason you should sell these and buy a new pair of skis though. Hope that helps. If anyone in Bozeman wants this done, I'm happy to help.
And if anyone wants a "how to", I'd be happy to cut up a shot pair of skis I have lying around for a tutorial. Go Fast Campers. Only saw this one, a euro dude cut his race room legend pros.
You could fashion or use if you could find a set the metal un-delaminators that were bolted to second generation legend pros. Originally Posted by PhiberAwptik. Pretty sure the twin on that ski is not meant for skiing switch.
Don't butcher the ski, get something that fits your needs. Originally Posted by XXX-er. Originally Posted by gwat. Join Date Feb Posts 4, Waterskis yes, but never snow skis. I have a pair of old JP vs Juliens I've been meaning to cut the huge tail tips off, planned to drill and put a few aluminum pop rivets through each tail before cutting to prevent delam. Anyone ever try using an abrasive chop saw? It would cut fast, that's for sure.
Lots of snowboarders slice their boards in half to make split boards. There is even a kit or used to be with all the after accessories they need after the cut, which is always done with a bandsaw, as far as I know. With custom skis, we can take into account all the dynamics to make sure everything is spot-on—guaranteed.
It goes without saying that the taller you are, the longer your skis should be. This is because taller people have more leverage to drive the ski, and longer skis help stabilize a higher center of gravity. Weight plays a part, too, because longer skis better distribute mass—especially in soft snow, in which additional surface area adds float. Heavier skiers also have more power to bend the ski, so a longer length will still feel manageable.
Usually, width and length increase in tandem. Avid skiers may have a quiver skis in three different waist-widths at three different lengths. Many skiers go 10 cm longer with their powder ski than they do with their groomer ski, for example. There are a number of reasons for this, but the most important is that wider skis are built to float in powder, cut through crud, and plow through mashed potatoes.
Most wider waisted skis also have a generous amount rocker, which is reverse camber in the tip and tail and sometimes throughout the whole ski. The rocker truncates the effective edge the edge that engages with the snow , which makes the ski feel shorter, necessitating a longer length than one that is fully cambered. You can skip to Buyer's Guide Part 3: Shape if you can't wait to learn more about rocker and camber. In contrast, with narrow groomer-oriented skis, a shorter length makes the turn easier to initiate and give the ski more of a responsive feel.
Generally speaking, the longer the ski is, the longer the turn it will prefer to make and vice versa. If your home hill consists of steep or tight terrain bumps, chutes, trees , you will want a turnier read: shorter ski. Essentially, if floatation and speed are high priorities, go longer.
If you are skiing above treeline in powder, go wider and maybe longer. Skiing in bumps, on groomers, or in more technical terrain? Consider a slightly shorter ski. The stiffer a ski is, the more stable it is at speed.
Skis use various materials, weights, and flex patterns to alter their suspension characteristics, increasing or decreasing their resistance to unintended movement across the snow, i.
Great article. I got a pair of Nordica Hell and Backs last year and opted for the longer size based on the reviews and feedback here despite the local shops saying I was crazy. Thanks for the great info and reviews! Keep it up! Really helpful thanks. Put all your factors into a spreadsheet, added a couple of my specific requirements, and it was overwhelmingly clear that going longer than my current ski would be best. None of this info was new to me, but just so helpful to have it all listed and the interrelationship of the factors discussed.
Nice job! Thanks, Peter! So glad we could help. Out of curiosity, have you been able to put some time on the ski you purchased. Do you feel you ended up with the right length? Hey Will, Got some time on that ski Movement Response over the southern hemisphere winter. Happy with the length. Not an issue I even thought about again until I saw a notification on this thread. So yeah, that worked out nicely. Great article and most informative. It got me thinking about edge grip. Is it effective edge seems logical , torsional rigidity, flex, damping does less chatter result in better edge grip?
I suspect all of the above but do some attributes dominate? Very sorry for the delayed reply. I found this article immensely informative. Thanks Again for one of the most germain ski articles that I have ever read. The advice on Blistergear for the Soul 7 is to size up. Rather than solve for turn radius I solved for effective edge. While the effective edge increased by only 2cm the surface are increased proportionately. My takeaway is that for the Soul7 body weight is the key factor and on the Rossi website while they list the usual suspects in determining size the table for the 7 series is based on weight.
I ran the Cochise through the numbers and found that both effective edge and surface area increases proportionately. Also almost all of the added length for each size goes to increasing the effective edge. Given that i ski mostly in the midwest with 10 or so days out west feel like having the maneuverability while stil having some stability the brahma provides was more important. Demoed the exp88 in and and felt the braham was easier to ski while still being able to push it a bit when opening it up on longer wider terrain.
Wasnt able to demo the braham in so hopefully that extra 7cm wont really make a difference on the skiing and ski going forward. I usually ski in the Dolomites, near Arabba, i consider myself a pretty good skier since i usually ski tracks like Fodoma, Granrisa and Sasslong which are some of the most hard ones you can find there.
Thank you in advance for your advice :. I am a strong beginner-intermediate skier looking to improve. Any help would be appreciated. Great info, thank you. The N. The design changes the year after that- I had a chance to compare- made them more user friendly. My weight plays a big part in all this. I generally make fast open turns on open terrain- I usually ski the upper terrain of Breckenridge Co. I try to avoid bumps, but they are a fact of life sometimes. The skis are tough for me on steep, slow, turny terrain.
I have the mm u ft Q Labs for deeper, slabby-er, or deep spring slush. Sorry, but I disagree with your explanation of Effective Edge. What you are describing is Running Surface which is contact point to contact point when ski bases are flat. Effective edge is measured from wide point to wide point on the edge of the ski. It measures how much of the sidecut and blend curves are using to turn the ski. I would add two points to this good article. The longer skis can suffer from vibration caused by a high frequency travelling wave that can contain the fundamental and also sub-harmonics.
The ski vibrates in a similar way to a guitar string. Damping-down this vibration can be done by clever construction. Other components can be inserted to cancel vibrations. The unwanted vibration causes the longer skis to flap, and lose edge grip. A stable ski could be described as well dampened.
This is a fixed design feature. It marks the maximum output carving radius. Would I better of with a stronger, more stable ski in a shorter length, or with a lighter, more agile ski in a longer length? Umh…skier weight has more to do with picking the best length than skier height. Will, Thanks for the interesting article. I understand how weight affects the length of ski one should ski but why is height such an important factor?
Jo PS: Also interested in the question posted above. I had this explained to me in a local ski shop: height determines the amount of leverage you can get on a ski. Weight is the secondary consideration for ski length. That makes sense. Always liked the stability at speed. Everyone should buy ski blades at the ski swap. Or, to put it another way, you could sometimes have a on your left foot and a on your right foot without being able to tell the difference.
I went ahead and tried this out at a demo day last year with a friend. We got two sizes of the same ski then traded one at the top of the lift. So just remember: buy whichever size is on sale and stop stressing about it. PS: I recognize that sometimes the big mountain gun has a unique construction and is built a lot stiffer than the , in which case this does not apply. Any chance you can report the specs of the effective edge or running length in your future ski reviews? I so love the Gotama that I bought , , and lengths.
Hey, cheap internet summertime prices, what can I say? The Gotamas are still active in my multi ski quiver. The is the most fun carver length at Their light weight and short length make them the best fast turn anywhere on the bump ski of the three. Float in pow is minimal but certainly better than a mm under foot ski. On the other hand In a place where I was cranking nice floaty turns on a pair of Shiros one day, the goats sank like rocks and got stuck the next day.
The has the best float. They require bump technique that relies more heavily on the use of the depressive contours I think of them as the dips rather than bumps to counter flex the ski and thus the bumps set the turn rhythm rather than the skier.
At I cannot overpower the s. The , I still experience my ten years ago initial thrill at how much performance I can extract from them. My preferences are that the best all around length, the is a very close second, and and the is a more distant third place.
They also made a , but no thanks to that length. They have a turned up tail so spray a rooster drowning your mates behind you. Just used them in Treble Cone in our winter of and they still rock. I bought the next model as well in and they do not perform as well.
Certainly at tight trees a la Revy are not easy to handle at speed and a quiver would be the call if your baggage permits. Now all my ski buddies are hunting super light skis with light touring boots and new style pin bindings as all we do is slack country touring. Trivia for you.
If your goats are the black skis with pink graphics, the Volkl trademark, the Volkl word, and the Buddha all glow in the dark. Skied Treble cone twice. I like it better than Coronet. Great stuff! Also consider the backpack if you will carry one. I learned that the pack changes your balance point and can make the tips feel short. The ski in question is borderline short for me at cm, but responds sweetly… until putting on a pack, then I want longer tips.
Helpful article and good comments! What about ski length for telemark skiers?
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